| In most cases, building a low-voltage
lighting system is surprisingly simple. The following guideline is
designed to assist you in determining the eight items that comprise most
systems. Please don't hesitate to contact us with additional
questions or concerns. |
| Table of Contents
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| Step #1: Selecting the System
As a rule of thumb, consider the following:
- Cable Systems are great for traversing wide open spaces,
such as great rooms or atriums. They are a nice complement to
low or open-beam ceilings. The key advantage to Cable is its
ability to span 25' or more, between supports. Runs
longer then 25' may be easily accomplished, with proper support,
tensioning and power supply.
- Radius Rail - Field Bendable, is great for whimsical, freestyle
design patterns. The installer simply mounts Support Tees in
the desired pattern, then threads the rail through, much like
threading a needle. Radius Rail is capable of curves, circles,
and even jumping between wall and ceiling planes.
- Twin Rail - Great looking system, and a stable
platform for bigger, heavier fixtures. Straight runs, or
factory bent, with customer-supplied radius information.
- Basis and Galaxis Track Systems are similar to Twin
rail, albeit a little sleeker, and arguably more contemporary
looking then Twin Rail. These are also great for wall-mounted
applications.
- Liana Track, like radius Rail, is field bendable - capable of
curved configurations. Thin and low profile, offered in brushed
or bright nickel
finish, it's one of the sleekest low voltage systems on the
market.
- Basis Beam is a rather unique and specialized product.
There's no need for external light fixtures, as halogen bulbs (lamps)
plug directly into place. Very clean and low profile.
Remember that lamp direction is determined solely by the orientation
of the track itself - lamps not used in supplemental fixtures have no
directabliliy of their own. For this reason, Basis Beam is best
utilized as uniform display lighting - for pictures, artwork, wall-washing,
etc.
Additional Systems Considerations:
- How long is the run, what quantity of conductor do you
need? (Remember to double the quantity for Cable
and Radius Rail systems.
- Where there is a choice, what finish conductor is desired?
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| Step #2: Determining Mounting
Hardware.
Once you've selected the system, the mounting
hardware should be pretty easy to determine. The pertinent questions
are:
- Wall or Ceiling mounted hardware?
- If Ceiling, do you want solid downrod, or
thin (aircraft) cable suspension? What overall length
do you need? (If over 12" or 18", aircraft cable
suspension is likely the better choice.)
- Finish? Usually the same as the
conductor system (although combinations of Aluminum hardware
and light fixtures with copper cable and accessory shields can look
stunning!)
- Quantity? Normally figure two (2) two
supports per 6' of a rigid track or rail run. (See our catalog
for system specific recommendations.)
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Step
#3: Choosing Inline Accessories
- Do you need track or rail connectors?
Anytime your run exceeds the length of (1) one piece of rigid
conductor, you'll need to join the individual sections. Couplers
can be straight/inline in configuration (usually #512), or adjustable
in angle ((#513 - Twin Rail, Basis Track only.)
- Isolators, anyone? Isolators are
track or rail connectors which break a system into separate electrical
circuits. This might be useful for particularly long runs
(exceeding 35' or so in length), or in cases where the total wattage
of lamps exceeds the capacity of a single transformer. (See Step
#5)
- Decorative endcaps are recommended for
dressing the ends of Twin Rail, Basis track and Basis Beam systems.
- Cable systems are somewhat a special
case: they can span up to about 25' without additional
tensioning or supports. Beyond that, however, we strongly
recommend the use of Double Turnbuckle Hardware sets (not power
feeds, by the way). At about 25', we recommend a support bar
or support tee, and at about 50', we recommend inline
turnbuckles (either conductive or isolating) for additional
tensioning. By repeating this formula, a cable system could,
theoretically, go on indefinitely. For isolation and power
supply considerations, please see Step #5.
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| Step
#4: Specifying a Power Delivery Component
How will low voltage power from the transformer be
physically delivered to the system? Some common options include:
- Invisibly, through wall or ceiling mounted
power hardware components (#CA-305, RR-308, TR-514, and GT-703,
for example.)
- Through a junction box, via a single or
double feed power canopy (typically #509 or #510, or a similar
component such as #LT-525-NK)
- Via power bolts (#507), or a power clip
(#701), from a surface-mounted transformer.
- Contact us for more powering options.
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| Step
#5: Choosing a transformer, or "power supply"
In the majority of cases, selecting a transformer's
easier then you think, given the following formula:
- Determine wattage capacity. Simply
put, the wattage capacity of the transformer needs to - at least -
equal the total wattage of the light bulbs anticipated on the
system. That is to say, (6) six fixtures each with 50-watt light
bulbs, would require a transformer of at least 300 watts output
capacity (though you may want to figure on a little extra, in case you
decide to add more fixtures later.)
- FYI, Translite offers transformers of 60, 150,
300, 500 watts, and a dual circuited 300 watt (600 watts total)
capacity. (Keep in mind that the field bendable systems - Radius
Rail and Liana Track - are limited to 300 watts per circuit, as
opposed to 500 watts for most other systems.
** Note: In cases where the wattage exceeds the
capacity of any single transformer, the lighting system may be isolated
into separate circuits, and each one individually powered.
- Determine Electronic or Magnetic
Transformers. Generally, magnetic transformers are bigger,
better, and more reliable than electronic ones. The advantage
electronic units have, however, is that their small size makes them
ideal for situations where the transformer will be visible, such as in
surface mounted applications where the transformer is mounted directly
onto an existing junction box.
** keep in mind: as a rule of thumb, electronic
transformers can only send power for a total of about 8-12 feet, so unless
you're dealing with monopoints, wall sconces, or are building a really
short system (and the transformer will be close at hand) you'll generally
want to stay with the larger power supplies. The exception to this
rule is the #PS4-DC, which, like its magnetic counterparts, can power an
entire 35' system.
- The 60 and 150 watt power supplies are
electronic. The 300 watt units can be either electronic or
magnetic, depending on the model, and the larger transformers
(300-500-600 watt) are all magnetic.
Additional Power Supply Considerations:
- You may want to consider the "debuzzing"
("-D") versions of our magnetic transformers, if:
- they are being used with dimmers, and-
- they will be located where a "buzz"
or "hum" might be distracting to someone close by.
- While, generally, the power output of the small,
electronic transformers is quite limited, our magnetic transformers
have an effective distance of about 35'. If your run is
longer still, you might consider the following solutions:
- Feeding the power from mid-span,
effectively cutting the system length in half.
- Isolating the system into separate
electrical circuits, and powering each circuit separately.
- Specifying a 24 volt, rather than 12
volt system, or using a Regulating or Multi-tap
transformer. These three options have their drawbacks as
well as their advantages, so please call us for more
information. Suffice to say, though, that in certain cases
they can effectively double the transformers performance
characteristics.
- Accessibility:
Translite’s PS- &
power supplies feature a patented, microprocessor controlled
auto-fusing device (AFD). This
important feature allows the system to reset by turning the wall
switch or dimmer off and then on again.
In the event of a short or overload, there’s no need to
access the remotely located power supply to reset it’s breaker.
- Appearance: If the power supplies
are to be visible, keep in mind that our decorative models; PS6
(magnetic), PS55 and PS-4-DC (electronic). These are offered in
various finish options to match the lighting system, or to
blend into the background.
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| Step #6:
Determining Power Feed Cable
Probably the easiest step yet. The "power feed cable"
is the electrical wire which carries the 12 volt power from the
transformer to the lighting system (or, more specifically, the the
"power delivery component" from Step #4. Varaible factors
are:
- From Remote Transformer - Transformer is located behind the
wall, above the ceiling, etc. Any time the power feed cable has
to go through walls, ceilings, conduit, anytime it passes through an
inaccessible space (typically part of the building structure), the Teflon
Coated Power Cable (#503-WH) is the one to use. * Important
note:
Teflon Power Cable is single stranded. Therefore, quantity
ordered must always be double the measurement of the space to be
traversed. i.e., if the transformer is 5' from the power
delivery component, 10' of Teflon Power Cable must be ordered.
- From Surface Mounted Transformer - If the transformer is
mounted on a wall, ceiling, beam, junction box, etc., adjacent to the
system, and power feed cable does NOT permeate an inaccessible space,
but travels freely through "free air" on its path to the
power delivery component, fell free to use our standard Power Feed
Cable (#502-CL). Unlike the Teflon Coated Cable, this is
double stranded, and can therefore be ordered in quantities matching
the distance between the transformer and power delivery component.
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| Step
#7: Selecting Light Fixtures
Now that the system is in place, the final step is
to choose fixtures and lamps. Translite light fixtures generally
fall into the following categories:
- Glass and Decorative - Generally,
hand-blown art glass shades, suspended from systems or
ceiling, and illuminated via bi-pin, halogen capsule lamps.
Provide general illumination and decorative accents.
- Spot Fixtures - Generally, flush-mounted,
system, ceiling, or wall mounted fixtures, precision machined from
solid aluminum extrusion. Standard lamping is 12 volt MR-16,
available in various beam spreads and wattages.
- Pendants - Generally, machined aluminum
fixtures which drop from the system or ceiling, or
project from the wall. generally, lamping is MR-16, with a
couple of the versatile bi-pin capsule fixtures included.
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| Step
#8: Specifying the correct lamps & accessories
The very last step! Our online catalog
offers lamping and accessory recommendations for each fixture. In
addition, please fell free to call us toll-free at 1-888-628-5332
for assistance, or use the feedback link located on the left side of the
screen. |
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